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Three archaeologists in protective gear excavating an ancient burial site, with aid from large lamps.

A groundbreaking study, featuring contributions from Marta Díaz-Guardamino of the Archaeology Department at Durham University, has unveiled remarkable insights into the Montelirio beaded attires. This research sheds light on the sophisticated craftsmanship, social organization, and female power in Copper Age Iberia, around 5,000 years ago.

Image above: Excavation process (by Alvaro Fernandez Flores)

Content warning: Please be aware that the this article contains close-up images of archaeological human remains.

Published in Science Advances, this multi-analytical study explores the largest single-burial assemblage of shell beads ever documented to date, revealing the intricate details of these sumptuary crafts.

Between 2010 and 2011, excavations at the Montelirio tholos burial site in southwestern Spain uncovered an unparalleled collection of beads, primarily worn by females. This study, conducted over five years, involved:

  • meticulous quantification;
  • raw material characterisation;
  • radiocarbon dating;
  • morphometric analysis;
  • phytolith analysis;
  • experimental work;
  • and contextual analysis.

The findings highlight the symbolic significance of these beaded attires, used by a select group of women of high social standing.

Detail shot of one of the skeletons in the Montelirio burial, Individual 343, showing multitudinous shell beads and the individuals left ribs and part of their spinal column.Detail of individual 343 (by David Wheatley).

The study could estimate that the Montelirio shell bead assemblage, weighing between 13 and 15 kg, comprises approximately 270,769 beads, making it the largest ever shell bead assemblage recorded worldwide. The production of these beads required an estimated 49,500 hours of labour, showcasing the high value and specialized craftsmanship involved. The study reveals that the majority are marine shell beads made of various bivalve species, including scallops and cockles. Radiocarbon dating reveals that the beads were probably collected shortly before or at the time of burial, around the 28th century BCE. Morphometric analysis detected differences in bead size and shape, suggesting variations in manufacturing processes and the involvement of different groups of artisans. The presence of phytoliths and fibre fragments in the beads suggests the use of flax and palm fibres in the attires, highlighting the advanced textile technology of Copper Age Iberia. The experimental replication of bead-making processes demonstrates the technical skills required, with an average time of 11 minutes per bead. This underscores the labour-intensive nature of this craftmanship.

The Montelirio beaded attires represent more than just decorative elements; they are symbols of identity, social status, and power. The garments could have been used in ceremonial and ritual contexts, reflecting the collective identity and authority of the women buried in Montelirio. The choice of marine shell beads, associated with the sea, further emphasizes the symbolic connection to the marine environment.

Side by side comparison of images of Individual 343 in the Montelirio burial. From left to right: aerial photo, 3D model without texture, 3D model with texture.Comparison photo and 3D models of Individual 343 (by Marta Díaz-Guardamino).

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